A recent TikTok makeup trend has surfaced in an attempt to recreate Pat McGrath’s “Porcelain Doll” or “Glass Doll” look used in Maison Margiela’s Couture Spring 2024 runway show.
Who is Pat McGrath? Dame Pat McGrath (yes, Dame, as in appointed by British royalty) has been an iconic Black fashion makeup designer since the 1980s. She’s worked with all the fashion legends like Alexander McQueen, celebrities like Kim Kardashian and Rihanna, and brands like Gucci, Prada, Louis Vuitton, and Versace.
Safe to say, she is the most influential makeup designer of our time, and quite possibly ever. It’s no surprise that she has created a new look that everyone’s trying to live up to. This look is meant to resemble porcelain or glass dolls, giving the wearer a shiny, shimmering face. The makeup is bold and artistic, though that hasn’t stopped people from trying it at home. You can also give it a try! Here is a guide to all the at home, affordable products to recreate this iconic look.
The first thing you’ll need is to glue down your brows so they are covered and you can redraw them later. You can use any brand of brow glue, or, as recommended by our favorite drag queens, a clear-drying Elmer’s Glue Stick!
NYX The Brow Glue Instant Brow Styler – $10 At Nyx Cosmetics
Foundation + Contour
You’ll need to apply a foundation base before the “glass” is added. This makes it so your skin looks evenly smooth and seamless, just like a dolls. Nose contour is also added to give your face a sharp look. In the original runway makeup, many of the models had pale and very white foundation, but you can choose if you want to go for a more natural or brighter shade instead. Honestly, with the right color correction, you can even do your normal foundation routine! Most of your face will be covered later anyways.
NARS Mini Radiant Creamy Concealer – $15 At Sephora
Best Skin Ever Liquid Foundation – $20 At Sephora
If you think you have enough blush, you don’t. This look LIVES on having as much rosy cheek as possible. We’re talking pinks, purples, oranges. Of course, if you want to tone it down for a natural look, nobody’s stopping you… But why would you?
Kimchi Chic Beauty Thailor Blush Duo, Pinky – $16 At CVS
Your Most Pigmented Eyeshadows
The color of eyeshadow can be up to you. McGrath used a variety of different color palettes, from greens and yellows to oranges and reds. Whatever the colors, it’s best to have at least two different colors for the upper and lower eyelid to give that doll-painted feel. Also note that for this look, you only need to add mascara: false lashes are not added.
Cosmetics Passion In Paris Shadow Palette – $19 At Beauty Bay
You’ll also want bright, shiny lips! Using a lip gloss or tint to get an extra glow is recommended. As for colors, this can vary just like the eyeshadow. Most of McGrath’s models had warmer tones like reds, oranges, and browns. Just remember to make sure your lips completely dry before adding the glass skin (you can also apply the lip gloss after the glass skin).
Fenty Beauty by Rihanna Gloss Bomb Cream Color Drip Lip Cream – $22 At Sephora
NYX Professional Makeup Butter Lip Gloss – $4 At Target
Brightening Powder & Glitter
This isn’t completely necessary as the glass effect will give a lot of shine, but if you want to reduce the amount of glass layers you apply, this will help give your skin a glittery sheen. Many of McGrath’s models also had glitter applied at the corners of their eyes to give the eyeshadow a bright pop that contrasts the soft blush.
Essence Brighten Up! Banana Powder – $5 At Ulta
NYX Professional Makeup Face & Body Glitter – $8 At Beauty Bay
The last thing before the big part is to draw your brows. Be sure to not use a water-based pen, as the ink will likely smudge when you apply the glass skin. For this look, thin and straight brows are best to make them look like they’ve been painted on glass.
Sephora Collection Retractable EyeBrow Pencil – Waterproof – $12 At Sephora
Benefit Goof Proof Brow Pencil and Easy Shape & Fill Pencil – $26 At Nordstrom
For the glass skin effect, there are several solutions. When this look originally started trending, many people on TikTok used a SFX product called Krylon Glass Skin which creates a thin, shiny layer around your skin. However, because of this trend, it’s pretty much sold out everywhere.
McGrath recently revealed what she used, and it’s something you likely already have at home: Peel-off face masks.
She used a variety of different peeling gel masks, mixing it with water and applying it in 7 to 8 different layers with an airbrush. You can easily buy an airbrush kit off of Amazon, but if you don’t want to do this, you can apply it in thin layers with a brush sponge. You can also use just one face mask and it’ll create a shiny glow. It’s even fun to peel off!
Freeman Renewing Cucumber Peel-Off Gel Mask – $3 At Amazon
Que Bella Hydrating Pineapple Peel-Off Mask – $2 At Target
Skin Illustrator Clear Gloss – $30 At Premiere Products
Remember, trust the process. You might feel a bit like a clown as you first start, but know that you’ll have your stunning doll look in no time. And don’t forget, you can always tone it up or down! It’s all up to you.
By Caileigh Winslade, Freshman, DePaul University
Instagram @fairytwist / Twitter @fairytwist_
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